Thursday, January 1, 2009

My Mountaineering Highlights

Mt. San Jacinto (10,804 feet, CA), up East Fork of Snow Creek (direct finish, 50+ degree snow, ~10,000 vertical feet in 11.5 hours), down to tram. April.

University Peak (13,632 feet, Sierras, CA), up North Couloir (50+ degree snow/ice, class 3+ rock, ~4,500 vertical feet), down Southeast Ridge (shortcut variation, 40+ degree snow), 13.5 hours. November 22.

Mt. Russell (14,086 feet , Sierras, CA), East Ridge (class 3), 5,800+ vertical feet, 14+ hours. October 3.

Bondcliff, Bond, Guyot, South Twin, and Garfield (White Mountains, NH), 29 miles, 6100 vertical feet, 15+ hours, solo. August 5. 

Mt. Washington (White Mountains, NH), Lion Head Winter Route, 8+ miles, 4,300 vertical feet, ~9 hours, solo. January 5.

Mt. Katahdin (Maine), up Hamlin Peak via Hamlin Ridge (class 3), to Baxter Peak, down Knife Edge (class 3+), ~12 miles, ~4,500 vertical feet, solo. Summer.

Hmmm . . . not much mountaineering here.  But I got married, earned a PhD, moved from CA to NY, started teaching college full-time, and fathered a child.

Fairview Dome (Yosemite, CA), Regular Route, 5.9, 9 pitches (I led 8 pitches). September.

Mt. Shasta (14,162 feet, CA), Whitney Glacier Route, 3 days. June.

Crimson Chrysalis (Red Rocks, NV), 5.9, 9 pitches. Spring.

Bird on a Wire (Joshua Tree, CA), 5.10a, 3 pitches (I led crux).

June-July: Spent six weeks in the Mont Blanc Massif, with a basecamp in Chamonix, France.  Climbed nearly twenty alpine rock routes, including (pardon my French grades):
Cordier Pillar, Grand Charmoz, TD 5+ A1, 600m (bailed 1-2 pitches from top).
Bienvenue au Georges V, First Pointe des Nantillons, TD+ 6a+, 350m (I led crux).
Le Marchand de Sable, Tour Rouge, TD+ 6a A1, 280m (skipped last pitch of snowy 3).
Voie Marilene, Pointe Lachenal, TD 5+ A1, 250m.
Vaucher Route, Gendarme 3068, TD 6a, 400m.

Moon Goddess Arete, Temple Crag (CA Sierras), IV 5.8 (no summit). May.
Whodunit, Tahquitz (CA), 5.9, 6 pitches (I led 5 pitches).
Lone Pine Peak (12,944 feet, CA Sierras), North Ridge, III 5.7, 14 hours car-to-car. May.

Royal Arches Route (Yosemite, CA), 5.7 A0, 15 pitches.

Red Rocks, NV: A dozen climbs of 5+ pitches including:
Crimson Chrysalis, 5.9, 9 pitches.
Beulah's Book to Sunflower, 5.9, 9 pitches.

July: Spent the month climbing in the Canadian Rockies. Highlights:
Mt. Edith Cavell, East Ridge, III 5.3.
Cadot Crack, Medicine Slabs, III 5.8, 14 pitches.
Mt. Louis, Gmoser Route, III 5.8, 12 pitches.

June-August: Basecamped at the Grand Teton Climbers' Ranch in WY and climbed thirty alpine routes, including ten summits of the Grand Teton by eight different routes. Highlights:
Grand Teton, North Face, IV 5.8, 19.5 hours car-to-car.
Grand Teton, North Ridge, IV 5.9 (variation), 2 days w/ bivy on Grandstand.
Grand Teton, East Ridge, III 5.7+, 2 days w/ bivy high on route.
Mt. Owen, Serendipity Arete, IV 5.7 A0, 2 days w/ bivy near summit.

45 day trek in the Khumbu Himal, Nepal.  Highlights included Everest Base Camp, climbing Kongma Tse (~19,000 feet), climbing Chukkung Ri (18,238 feet), and crossing the Cho La. April-May.

11 day trek to and from the Goecha La (~16,500 feet) near Kanchenjunga in Sikkim, India. March.

Onsight flashed several 5.11a sport climbs in the Owens River Gorge (CA).

Pacific Crest Trail (Snoqualmie Pass in WA to Manning Provincial Park in Canada), 26 days, 260 miles, 2 food drops. September-October.

John Muir Trail (CA Sierras), 17 days, 225 miles (including detours), 0 food drops, solo. August-September.

Fairview Dome (Yosemite, CA), Regular Route, 5.9, 9 pitches.

Mt. Whitney (14,505 feet, CA Sierras), up Mountaineer's Buttress (class 4+), down Mountaineer's Route.

Mt. Ritter and Mt. Banner (CA Sierras), solo in spring w/ bivy on saddle.

Climbed six Colorado 14ers in winter/spring, 5 of them solo.

Grand Teton (WY), Upper Exum Ridge, II 5.4, spring conditions, plastic mountaineering boots. July.